Turkey, the Macy's Parade and Setting Triangle Math

My Thanksgiving morning was perfectly nostalgic. Up early to put the turkey on and make a nice breakfast. followed by watching the Macy's Thanksgiving parade on TV . . .  updated a bit because as I watched, I cut setting triangles and assembled a Christmas quilt top from those old swap blocks.

With a large design wall, it was a lot easier to figure out what I meant by my mysteriously coded sketch and lay out the blocks.

It seems I always have to go look up setting triangle math, whenever I put blocks on point.  I know that the magic number is the square root of 2–1.414–but I never remember what to do with it ... so off to the computer I go.

Here's how I will remember NEXT time:

• Since I'll need MORE side triangles, I MULTIPLY the finished block size by 1.414.  Then, because I am going to cut the square into quarters, as for quarter-square-triangle units, add 1 1/4 for the seam allowances.
• For the corners, I do the opposite and DIVIDE the finished size block by 1.414.  Because I am going to cut them diagonally in half, like half-square-triangle unites, add 7/8 inch.   

For both kinds of triangles, round the measurements to the nearest 1/8 inch ... so you can easily cut them.

For the corners, I used the twelve inch star block as the starting point.  12 / 1.414 + 7/8 = 9 3/8 inches.  Because I inserted six inch 4-patches into the side setting triangles, I used 6 in the side triangle math. 6 * 1.414 + 1 1/4 = 9 3/4.

Vines and Handles: A Closer Look at Bias Strip Appliqué

I put these tips together for the Block Lotto, to help everyone produce nice flat curved handles for their Liberated Basket blocks.  This technique works for any bias appliqué strips: stems, vines, branches etc.

When it comes to quilting, we are usually taught to avoid working with bias edges, using STEAM when pressing and pulling/contorting our fabrics.  But sometimes, all of these things can work for you to achieve the desired effect.

Here's a closer look at the steps for making the basket handle.  Click any of the photos for a larger image and add your own tips in the comments.

1. Be sure to cut your strips ON THE TRUE BIAS.  Do NOT fudge on this step. Align the 45 degree line on your ruler with the selvedge or cut edge of your fabric to find the bias line across your fabric. 
2. Sew the bias strip into a tube by sewing the two long edges together, WRONG SIDES together.   Don't even finger press the fold and you won't have to worry about getting rid the crease you create.  Thread color doesn't matter (notice my not so "neutral" light gray.) After you've sewn the seam, trim away the seam allowance as close as you can to the seam–after the bias is in place, there will be no stress on that seam.
   
    
   
   
3. Now, carefully prepare the sewn bias strip.  Roll the seam and it's tiny seam allowance between your fingers so that the seam is in the middle of the strip. Take the strip to the iron and press it firmly so that it is VERY flat.
   
    
   
   
4. Next, using the STEAM in your iron, "swirl" the strip.  This technique I learned when making hats.  It's how you create the shape of the grosgrain ribbon that rests against the head inside the hat.  Since your head isn't a cylinder, the ribbon needs to wider at the bottom than the top, by swirling the ribbon into a slight curve, you create a ribbon that measures longer on one side than the other and fits beautifully inside a hat and against the head.
   
   It works like this: using a STEAM iron in one hand to anchor one end of the strip to the ironing board and holding the other end of the strip in your other hand to manipulate the strip.  As you press along the length of the bias strip, you'll be stretching one edge slightly to create a curved shape. 
   
   
   
   Depending on the angle at which you pull the strip around, you coulcome very close to creating the shape you want for your handle at the ironing board. I was able to completely form my handle at the ironing board.
   
   
   
   
5. Pin the handle in place, focusing on the OUTSIDE of the handle first.  Use as many or few pins as you need. If you are stitching your handle down on the machine, be sure to remove the pins as you come upon them. 
6. When machine stitching the handle, be sure to use a thread color that matches or invisible thread. Use an open sewing machine foot that will allow an open view of the needle/seam and the edge of the handle.  If you can change the needle position on your machine, take advantage of that feature to sew as close to the edge of the handle as you can.  On my little Bernina (153 QE), I used a #10 appliqué foot and moved my need to the far right.
   
   If you are using a straight stitch, as I did here, you want to be close to the edge while staying on the bias strip  If you are using a blind stitch, blanket stitch or zigzag, you'll also want to be close to the edge, but stitching along the background (and zigging into the handle).
   
    
   
   
7. After you have stitched down the outside, you may notice that the background has pulled in a little.   You also now have an opportunity to work on the inside curve with the STEAM iron.  so, press the strip again, with STEAM, starting with the curviest part of the handle works the excess fabric into the straighter/more gently curved areas so it doesn't get tucks in it. Pulling the edge down/pressing towards the bottom of the block rather than perpendicular to the stitching on the outer edge shortens the fabric in the inside curve to help it lay smoothly as well.
   
    
   
8. When you have pressed and manipulated the handle so that it lies flat, you're ready to stitch down the inside curve.  Once again, you want to sew as close to the edge as you can. Upon close examination, your stitching will highlight the beautiful, smooth curve (with all edges appearing to be turned under– something I learned to think about in a  Jane Sassaman workshop from some years ago.
   
   Once your handle is completed, attach it to the bottom of the basket block, trimming the excess length of handle even with the fabric edge. I generally sew first and trim later to ensure that the ends of the strips don't have any possibility of folding up and getting in the way in the seam and . . . not lying flat when I'm done.
   
    
   

Here's the rest of the block that goes with my example handle, after it was pressed and trimmed to size.

Disappearing 9-Patch

When Christine mentioned using pieced blocks in the Disappearing 9-Patch pattern on the Quilting Forum, I thought it was brilliant. I immediately thought of the 6 inch patchwork heart blocks we're making this month for the block lotto and what a great setting this could be for them.

I had to try it . . . and then, I liked the results so much I had to share.

1. Start with 4 pieced blocks. (If you like these hearts, you'll find the pattern here.)




2. Add 5 squares of fabric the same size as the pieced blocks and make a 9-Patch with the pieced blocks in the corners. If your blocks have a right-side-up AND you want all the blocks to be right-side-up in the finished quilt, start with two of them, in diagonally opposite corners, upside down.



3. Press your 9-patch block, then cut into 4 equal quarters.



4. Rotate the two upside down blocks (or any opposite corners if they are non-directional) and sew the 4-patch together.



5. All done!

No Waste Flying Geese

Once you wrap your mind around the math, this is an easy, clever way to make to make flying geese units, 4 at a time, with no waste and no dealing with sewing bias edges.



Flying Geese units are typically twice as wide as they are tall. The finished size of my examples is 2 by 4 inches. They were used as the star points in the 8 inch Sawtooth Star blocks we made for the lotto in October, 2007.

Cutting Fabrics

For each set of four geese, you'll need:

• one square of the geese fabric which is 1-1/4 inches larger than the finished width of the geese unit (i.e., 5-1/4 for 2 x 4 inch geese)
• four squares of sky fabric which are 7/8 inch larger than the finished height of the geese unit (2-7/8 inches for 2 x 4 geese).
  

In this example, the cream is the geese fabric and the batik is the sky fabric.



Sewing the Units

Putting right sides together, line up the edges of two of the small squares with the edges of two diagonal corners of the large square. Draw a line, across both small squares from corner to corner.



Stitch 1/4 inch on each side of the drawn line. Then cut along the line.



Press the seams toward the dark fabric.



For each half, align a small square in the corner.right sides together. Draw a diagonal line.



Stitch 1/4 inch on each side of the drawn line. Then cut along the line.



Press the seams toward the dark fabric. You're done.

Preparing Circular Elements for Appliqué

This Posy block was made using the faced appliqué technique, with a variation for preparing the Posy's center. This appliqué preparation works for circles, ovals and their wonky variations.

PREPARING CIRCLES FOR APPLIQUE

1. Create a template from light-weight cardboard or heat-resistant template plastic. If you are making small circle appliqués, you may find a coin or washer that is exactly the size you need.
   
   
2. Lightly trace the template on the back of your yellow/gold fabric
   
   
   
   
3. Cut out the center with a generous 1/4" seam allowance all the way around.
   
   
   
   
4. Using needle and thread, make a running stitch in the seam allowance.
   
   
   
   
5. Place your center fabric right side down, place the template on top, then pull the thread to pull the seam allowance to the back of the template. PRESS. Allow the fabric/template to cool, then gently loosen the stitches and remove the template.
   
   
   
   
   You should have a nicely pressed center with all the edges turned under. I usually give it another press to make it nice and flat and ready to use.
   
   
   
   
6. The steps for assembling the Posy block are the same as for Faced Appliqué. Center the flower appliqué on the background. Fuse or pin in place.
   
   
7. Sew the flower to the background - on this block, I used matching red-violet and yellow thread and a zig-zag stitch.
   
   
8. Turn it over and cut away the background (and the interfacing fused to it) from behind the flower.
   
   
   
   
9. Place the center on the flower and pin in place.
   
   
10. Stitch center.
    
    
11. Turn over the block and cut away the flower fabric from behind the center
    
    
    
    
12. Press the block. Square it up and trim to 8.5 inches. You're done ;-)
    
    
    
    

Using Templates for Machine Appliqué

There are a couple of beginner-friendly techniques for machine appliqué which use templates.



One approach uses freezer paper and a glue stick; for the other, you'll need some sort of heat-resistance template material (I used lightweight cardboard) and starch. The two blocks on the left were created using the freezer paper-glue stick approach; the one on the right was made using a heat-resistant template and starch.

FREEZER PAPER TEMPLATES

For this method, you'll need freezer paper, a water soluble glue stick, a towel and some water.

1. Trace the design onto the non-shiny side of a piece of freezer paper.
   
   
2. Cut out the template (on the line) and iron it to the wrong side of the flower fabric.
   
   
   
   
3. Cut out the fabric, leaving approximately 1/4 inch seam allowance.
   
   
   
   
4. Using a piece of scrap paper to work on, apply glue stick to the seam allowances. Fold them back and stick them to the freezer paper. You will need to clip the fabric wherever there are inside curves.
   
   
   
   Your appliqué is now ready to use.
   
   
   
   
5. Using this technique, you do not need to make a template for the center of the Posy. The center fabric can be rough cut - it should be large enough to fit behind the flower element, extending beyond the edge at least 1/4 inch, but make your life easier and be generous. The center fabric should be prepared like the background, starched and pressed.
   
   
6. Begin assembling the block by sewing the flower to the center fabric. You can hold it in place with pins or a little glue stick. After it's sewn, turn the appliqué piece over and trim the excess center fabric, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
   
   
   
   
7. Place the Posy appliqué on the center of your background square. Pin or glue-stick in place.
   
   
   
   
8. Stitch the Posy in place, then turn over the block and cut away the background fabric behind the flower.
   
   
   
   
9. To remove the freezer paper, you must first loosen the glue. place the block on a towel and spray with water. (Again, my advice is to be generous and make your life easy - it's only water.) Use a q-tip, orange stick or similar tool to lift the seam allowances from the freezer paper, so you can remove it. Let the block dry and press or press it dry.
   
   
10. Square up the block and trim to 8.5 inches. You're done.
    
    
    
    This block was sewn using clear mono-filament with a blind hem stitch.
    

HEAT RESISTANT TEMPLATES

For this method, you'll need liquid or spray starch and some sort of heat-resistant template material. It could be heat-resistant template plastic (made especially for this technique) or some lightweight cardboard, like I used in my sample block. You'll also need q-tips or a small brush.

1. Create a template from your pattern.
   
   
2. Trace the template on the BACK of your flower fabric
   
   
   
   
3. Cut out the flower fabric, leaving approximately 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip any inside curves, up to, but not into the drawn line.
   
   
4. Take template and fabric to the ironing board. Put the fabric right side down and place the template over it, lining it up on your drawn lines. Using a small brush or q-tip paint the starch on the seam allowance. If you are using spray atarch, you can spray some inside th lid then use the liquid with your brush. Fold the painted seam allowances up over the template and press in place.
   
   
   
   
5. Allow the fabric and template to cool, then gently remove the template. I press the fabric (and it's nicely turned under edge) one more time to make it nice and flat.
   
   
   
   
6. The assembly of the block is similar to that with freezer paper templates. The center fabric should be starched and pressed then pinned in place.
   
   
7. Stitch the flower to the center
   
   
   
   
8. Turn the Posy over and trim the center fabric, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
   
   
   
   
9. Center the Posy on the background square and pin in place. Stitch.
   
10. Turn the block over and cut away the background fabric from behind the flower.
    
    
    
    
11. Press the block, square up the block and trim to 8.5 inches and you're done .
    
    
    
    This block was sewn with purple matching thread using straight stitch.